I leave Punta Arenas by bus to the north and three hours later I arrive at Puerto Natales, a small town by the sea that is the base for trips to Torres del Paine. There I sleep, I organize my backpack, with the stove, the tent and food for 8 days (the longest walk with everything on top that I have ever done!). The next day I go by bus 2 more hours to the north to start the walk.
Torres del Paine is a granite massif, surrounded by glaciers and lakes. You can do day hikes, the W circuit of about 4 days, or the O circuit, of 8, which is what I decide to do.
Important note: when I was in Torres del Paine I didn’t have to make reservations. Now it is essential to book on the official website of the park
Torres del Paine map

Torres del Paine map

Taking advantage of the good weather, which may not last long in Patagonia, I start the circuit going to the Torres. I meet Llerson, a very nice guy from Santiago, and the next day we get up early (at 3 am) to get to the viewpoint and see the sunrise. Spectacular!

Torres del Paine Oriol Muns Pradera

Happy in Torres del Paine

Then I continue the circuit in an anti-clockwise direction, passing through the steppe and then seeing glaciers, and visiting the fantastic area of ​​Lake Dickson.

One of the most spectacular days is the one that climbs the Gardner pass and you reach the Grey glacier for the first time, an immense mass of ice 28 km long and 6 km wide. Incredible! Here is a video of the site, without words!

 And at the end of the glacier, there is a beautiful lake with icebergs.


Lago Grey Torres del Paine

Lago Grey

Then I return to the W, with many more people, but scenic places like the French Valley.

Torres del Paine is like the Camino de Santiago trail where instead of reaching a church, you come to granite walls. People from all over the world visit it, and above all, Chileans, many of them with backpacks with things hanging everywhere.

There is an atmosphere of camaraderie between experienced people and people who walk for more than a day for the first time, and very basic camps, or camps equipped with showers and shelters.

It’s a bit crowded, but one of the best things is the people you meet, all of them with very different reasons for walking.

Paine Grande camp
Cooking at Paine Grande Camp at rush hour



These are some of my travel companions:

Freda from New York. She rests in the shade of a tree looking at the landscape while her friends go up to see the Towers. We chatted for a while, and she told me: “Chileans complain about their country, Argentines are not happy with theirs and neither are you. And I’m from New York, and I’m not happy with mine either … So I wonder … Where are the people happy with their country? ” It seems that people really enlighten under the trees!

Freda New Yok


Llerson, Santiago de Chile. We have climbed at dawn to the base of Torres del Paine, and we wait for the sun to rise. Some very young Israelites listen to electronic music and people arrive with headlamps. Llerson tells me smiling: “Chile is a chili pepper”, with parallel fingers, drawing the shape of his country and playing with the meaning of the chili pepper, which in Chilean is called “ají”, and the shape of his country.

Llerson Torres del Paine


Hugo, Vale, Yayo, Chileans. Biology students, I know them at Camp El Paso. Many very nice Chilean university students walk the path of the towers. We chat for a while, and Yayo can speak a little bit ofCatalan that he learned in an elective in Santiago!

Gugoi Vale Yaypo Torres del Paine

Hugo, Vale and Yayo

Koshiro and Rika from Japan. They are travelling through South America. Always very smiling, I cook with them and hallucinate with the super stove they have of a Japanese brand that I have never seen, and curse my MSR, which always fails at the most inopportune moment.

Koshiro i Rika

Koshiro and Rika

Some more pictures:
Lago Pehoe
Pehoe Lake
Cuernos y Torres del Paine
Cuernos and Torres del Paine

Once the excursion is over, I take the bus to continue traveling north, to cross back to Argentina and go to Calafate, an area of ​​glaciers and electric-blue lakes.




More pics in the album Torres del Paine